Jackson Mississippi sits in the southern end of one of our favorite byways; The Natchez Trace. We have traveled the Trace from north to south and south to north first with car and tents and then via our motorhome for years. We keep coming back so we can savor the two lane strip of highway not to exceed 50 MPH speed limit. One breathes in the sense of history and discovery following this road, calling up images of the “Kaintucks” or the “boatmen from the Ohio river Valley.” They floated their furs and other wares down the Mississippi River by raft to sell and then trekked on foot about 500 miles from Natchez to Nashville forming the Natchez Trace. The 30 day trip must have been packed with adventure.
Jackson too is a city deeply immersed in history, founded in 1821 situated on a bluff along the Pearl River. Noting that this location had “beautiful and healthful surroundings, good water, abundant timber, navigable waters, and proximity to the Natchez Trace,” the General Assembly authorized this location as the permanent seat of government for the state, naming the city Jackson in honor of Andrew Jackson, soon to be the 7Th president of the United States. http://www.jacksonms.gov/visitors/history
The role of the city throughout the years since its founding is long, involved and brilliant and today, players in that history are celebrated including Medgar Evers, Eudora Welty and so many more.
Arriving in Jackson on a Friday, we searched the web for info on the local Jewish community and Shabbat services. We found Beth Israel Congregation and were surprised at its deep roots and long history. Founded in 1860, it was the first synagogue in Mississippi, serving 15 families. The first rabbi was hired in 1870. He moved the congregation to embrace the Reform movement and offered his sermons in English. Notably, On September 18, 1967, the then new temple building was bombed by the Ku Klux Klan, followed two months later by the bombing of Rabbi Nussbaum’s home. Damage was done, but no one was hurt. These acts of terrorism “helped to galvanize Jackson’s white community to action” in the Civil Rights Movement.
Knowing that Shabbat morning services begin at 9:00 AM and Torah Study at 10:30, we walked into the synagogue after being greeted by Gavin as he arrived on his motor cycle. He directed us to the front door. The welcome was golden as we were greeted by member after member introducing themselves, asking where we were from and extending pure southern hospitality to us. We felt at home, stayed for the moving service and participated in the stimulating conversation about the Torah portion of the week.
Rabbi Valerie Cohen gave us a tour of the synagogue and the honor of Aliyah, blessing Torah. We enjoyed speaking with Rosemary, orienting us with prayer books and seats, with Carol from Chicago, now in Jackson for a year helping her grandfather through the loss of his wife of many years (Carol’s grandmother) and with his up-coming surgery. Gavin is also facing multiple surgeries and rode his motorcycle for what may be the last time on his road to recovery. We wish everyone well and once again, celebrate having acquired new friends. How we have benefited from fine hospitality and continue to thrive as we continue on down the road.
Ann Carol Goldberg